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When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. But, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The honour has made the owners completely astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.